For reasons best known to him, he decided that he should make the purchase in Udon Thani, rather than here in good old Pattaya. I’ve been to Udon Thani several times and have had the opportunity to visit and observe rural life in the various villages and farming communities, there. On this journey, I was struck by the contrasts that still exist “up country” and, I guess, Thailand as a whole.

Udon Thani, situated in northeast Thailand in the area known as Isaan, has a population of about 100,000 people and is one of Thailand’s larger cities. It has amenities such as malls, plenty of American style fast food outlets if that’s your bent and several cinemas. As far as tourist attractions in the city proper, there isn’t much. The national museum at Ban Chiang is about fifty kilometers away. Basically, there’s not a lot to do.

Nong Prajak Park and reservoir offer a respite from the urban sprawl. It’s a pleasant spot to walk around or to sit on one of the benches and recharge one’s batteries. Dotted around the reservoir are several restaurants, some offering live music. When you’re visiting a Thai friend’s family, you’ll inevitably host some sort of banquet for family, friends, acquaintances and, I uspect, complete strangers. We had one such party at a restaurant adjacent to the park. The food and whiskey flowed as if it was the last day of the world. Every few minutes, some new faces joined us and took their places at the ever expanding table. Everyone ate, drank, sang and danced. I never saw so many people with such big appetites and unquenchable thirsts for whiskey and coke. At one point, I asked my companion if I should sneak out to the Internet shop so I could wire a couple of million baht to my local account in order to pay for all this. With new “friends” showing up by the multitude, I figured this was going to cost a large fortune. He told me not to worry. Sure, he wasn’t paying. Why should he worry? When the check-bin finally arrived, the bill for the entire evening was under 4,000 baht. Considering that most of Ban Nonghuku and neighboring villages had shown up, it was quite reasonable. Although a ten percent service charge had already been added to the bill, I handed the waiter 200 baht for his excellent service and he almost had a heart attack. The repast was enjoyed by all and Best’s family attained big “face” as a result. On another evening, Best and I had steak dinners at a little outdoor joint, also near the park. I must say, the steaks weren’t bad and the total bin was 160 baht for the two of us. Take note, Pattaya. Something I learned on this visit was that if I ever have a medical emergency, I pray that I’ll be close to Bangkok-Pattaya Hospital or another one of Fun City’s fine health facilities. During our visit, Best’s brother had an appendicitis attack. He was rushed to Udon’s public hospital. We hurried to the hospital to see him, took the elevator to the fifth floor, where he was located, got off the elevator and there he was: right there in the corridor with about a dozen other people, lined up against the wall on beach chairs. There was no room at the inn, so to speak. Following the surgery, we assumed he’d be placed in a room, or at least a ward, right? Wrong. Post surgery, there he was, still in the corridor, but now on a portable hospital bed. After three days, he was finally placed in a room. Anyway, he’s still alive. So, I guess he got some decent care. Thailand, as with many other places, is a study in contrasts. The Thailand many of us farangs see here in Pattaya is a modern, resort with all sorts of amenities, attractions and upscale condos, houses and villas. A typical village in Isaan, has a few basic mom and pop shops and basic Thai style, wooden homes; although one sees more lavish homes going up among the more modest abodes, these days. Best’s mom transports students to and from the city of Udon Thani from their village and owns a new truck for this purpose. She also runs a small restaurant serving workers in the amphur of Ban Phue. One of the reasons Best needed to buy his car in Udon Thani was that his mother had to sign as a guarantor for auto loan. Surprisingly, his family, consisting of his mother, stepfather and young nephew live in a small shop house in the village. Furniture is sparse and the family sleeps on mattresses on the floor. Bathroom facilities are out back. His stepdad sells noodles from the front of the shop house during the day. The family also owns a small cinder block house, off a dirt road, which lacks basic amenities such as electricity, due to its remote location. Best’s step dad used to raise fighting chickens there. Udon Thani doesn’t offer a lot in the way of attractions for the casual tourist. However, if you’re visiting friends or family, you’ll be treated to another aspect of life in the “land of smiles”, the “real” Thailand, so to speak. It’s certainly different than Bangkok and other tourist centers such as Pattaya. What’s more, the next time you ask a beautiful bar girl or boy where she comes from and she replies, “Udon Thani,” you’ll be able to say, “Yes, I’ve been there already.”

By Alan S. Brown