To water tank and pump or not?

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Paul
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Post by Paul » November 3, 2005, 9:13 pm

Oh wel that clears it up then !

Clear as mud now :( :( :(



Dakoda
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Post by Dakoda » November 3, 2005, 9:48 pm

:lol: :lol: :lol: and I thought it was just me :mrgreen:

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banpaeng
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Post by banpaeng » November 3, 2005, 10:11 pm

Not sure what else to say. It is just a normal water well set up. One pump, one pressure tank, piping and pressure switch. Apply electricity and water well and presto you have water in house.

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Post by tenbyboy » November 3, 2005, 10:13 pm

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Post by Thai_1_On » November 4, 2005, 12:58 am

I would say have one pump from the well to a storage tank. Then have a pressure pump to draw from the tank and supply the house with water.
Punish the Liver

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BangkokButcher
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Post by BangkokButcher » November 4, 2005, 1:59 am

Oldman, I have also drank from a well that was around the 350 foot deep mark, but the water itself tasted absolutely revolting, the rest of the family seemed to have adapted to the taste :? , just wondering if your's was ok?

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banpaeng
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Post by banpaeng » November 4, 2005, 2:08 am

Thai_1_on that is a very good way of doing things but it requires two pumps as you stated. You can do this with a submersible or centrifical pump. If you use a submersible pump it is lowered into the water so no foot valve on the end under the pump is needed. If using a top level centrifigul pump you need to put a foot valve on the bottom of the pump string in the well. Using one pump helps cut cost and the nuber of mechanical parts to break down.

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Post by tenbyboy » November 4, 2005, 2:27 am

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banpaeng
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Post by banpaeng » November 4, 2005, 2:33 am

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

My whole point is the more eloborate system you instal the more problems can arise. Just don't scrimp or be cheap on the initial equipment and you will be much better satisfied.

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Post by Dakoda » November 4, 2005, 7:32 am

Oldman, I have also drank from a well that was around the 350 foot deep mark, but the water itself tasted absolutely revolting, the rest of the family seemed to have adapted to the taste #-o , just wondering if your's was ok?

In the States, we get them tested. I would not be drinking from a un-tested well :-k

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Post by Thai_1_On » November 4, 2005, 8:04 am

Good point banpaeng but I am the family mad mechinic and I like a challange :wink: Out at the farm I was ready to rewire the whole house along with the way the well pump was wired. Turned out they had the power switch on the pole out by the well and the pump and then I said why not put the pump switch in the house? :shock: This is the look I got but mai pen lai I'll change it once I move.

Here is a wild idea for high water pressure in the house why not try this. Start with say a stainless steel tank or maybe even a plastic one that is sealed on top. Drill and tap the top and put in a brass fitting in to hold a airhose. Now heres where it gets fun use a 2 or 3 hp air compresser with a pressure switch set at what ever gets you the best pressure without blowing up your pipes :shock: and run it to the top of the tank. I know I'm just adding another system to the water system but it would be cool to see work and your water pressure would be strong enough to clean your neighbors paint off his house :wink: Might need a valve on the toilet sprayer as not to remove skin :?
Punish the Liver

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banpaeng
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Post by banpaeng » November 4, 2005, 8:30 am

Not without some modification. First you would not need horsepower to generate pressure.. Before I go there let me say you will need a check valve in the line off of the water pump. Also remember to set your air pressure lower than your water pressure or you will prevent your pump from pumping or deadheading.

next why use a big air compressor. What you need is a pressure tank that will hold your pressure. I would go with two options.

1. Use an air tank as your water tank. These are usually expensive for the size you need. Most water tanks will not hold the pressure you speak of. Most water tanks are only rated to 125PSI If you do this do not use PVC pipe.

2. Get some schedule 80 pipe with 300 LB flanges. Have someone weld this up and then ask them to pressure test it to 250 to 300 PSI

I really do not think you want this type of pressure. Visit with your local fire dept and this is they type of pressure they use. Only thing with option 2 you need a pretty good pump. At this point you need two pumps as a submersible will not work.

What i can suggest is you limit your water pressure to 100PSI Even this is too hard a pressure for household use. PVC might hold this but I would not be comfortable as it is going to spring leaks.

Actually you will not need an air compressor to get to 100 PSI. remember you can compress air but not water. The only thing that works on a pressure tank is have a bladder in the top or air on top of the water. That is how you build pressure. If you do this with the water pump as soon as you open the tap you will have no pressure. That is why you need air in the tank.

valentine

Post by valentine » November 4, 2005, 8:49 am

Well , what started off as a simple subject has gone really wild, so in an attempt to bring sanity to the proceedings can I tell in the simplest terms, what has worked 'well; for me. I bored a hole, 22 mtrs deep, inserted twin pipes, one inside the other, to prevent soil erosion, clogging the system. We then use, a deep water well, pump, to bring the water up to a stainless tank, mounted on a concrete tower, 6mtrs high.( You can use blue plastisic, but don't attempt to consume the water, it tastes horrible)Incidentally, the plastic tanks use a colour coding, blue for fresh water, black for sewage. From the tank, the water is gravity fed, through an industrial sediment filter, then to a pressure pump, which feeds to the house. Inside one outlet goes through a small, wall mounted filter, just used to provide drinking water, the rest to baths, showers etc as normal.
If the power goes off, we do have a reduced gravity fed supply to the lower located outlets, without modification.
I have a large bungalow, so wouldn't know if this would be suitable for a two storey dwelling.It has worked for me, without problem for 3 years.
Thats it, Bye

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banpaeng
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Post by banpaeng » November 4, 2005, 9:25 am

A very appropriate system with the electric outages you say you have. It is what is need for what you say.

I agree that the systems are a bit elaborate but Thai_1_on want a super system for as he says he likes to tinker.

As stated eairler a simple system with as few moving parts is the best for me

As working on pipelines and pumps for over 30 years, i can most likely help build any system you want.

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Post by polehawk » November 4, 2005, 2:44 pm

I doubt that banpaeng's occupational specialty is on the list of prohibited occupations.

Hang your shingle, banpaeng. Sounds like your services will be in demand once you are settled. :D

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Paul
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Post by Paul » November 4, 2005, 7:30 pm

Come on guys - I dont want to build the next air powered stainless steel rocket (although come the next ban fai festival to make it rain - surely I would win the competition LOL)

If I add a simple stainless steel tank - fed from the (relatively low pressure mains water) - I just need one simple pump after the tank - right to supply (hopefully constant) water at a reasonable pressure?

Any hints on the most suitable size (power) for a single storey house?

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banpaeng
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Post by banpaeng » November 4, 2005, 7:53 pm

Paul I do not know your house use, but as most houses are not high volume use, it will matter more on the size tank than horsepower. The larger size resevior the better and more steady pressure to the house. So am I saying get a very large expensive tank? NO WAY! If I was putting in a house system I would look for one about 50 to 80 gallons. As stated above horsepower will not get you there. It is the discharge volume of the pump. Get a pump that has a discharge rate of at least 5 Gallon per Minute( Will be wrote GPM) and if me I would try to get one about 10GPM (12 to 15 is ok to) rated for at least 100 PSI. As far as horsepower, you should be able to do this with with 1/2 HP to 1 HP motor easily. Adding horsepower to this pump will not make it do more. It is GPM at what pressure that will get you what you want.

A lot of pumps have a pressure switch built in for water pumps. If not you will need to install a pressure switch that will cut on and off the pump motor..

Hope this helps.

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Paul
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Post by Paul » November 4, 2005, 8:04 pm

Thanks a lot for that info. I have noticed also that the wattage is a factor affecting price also - starting from 100 watts and increasing in 50w increments - but armed with your info - I will take a closer look.

We are renting out a small room next to our house and they have commented on the trickle of water that comes every morning :(
Looks like this is gonna be sooner rather than later

Thanks
Paul

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banpaeng
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Post by banpaeng » November 4, 2005, 8:54 pm

Paul I forgot one thing. Make sure the pump has an internal backflow device or instal a check/backflow valve inline.

If you are feeding two households with water, teh above recommendations should work fine but get the 12 to 15 GPM pump.

hope this all goes as you like.

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Watertesting

Post by Mobaan » November 4, 2005, 9:50 pm

With all this talk about tanks and pumps etc ,it was mentioned to test the water for potability. Where can one get the tests done,are they reliable ,what will it cost.What do thet test for? Has anyone done this before?

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