My Udon Home Building

Information on building a house, buying poperty and land, and all other general contruction topics...
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AussieBoy
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Post by AussieBoy » October 20, 2007, 8:05 am

Photo: Smoko time , with the daily icecream truck, workers taking a break sucking on the boss supplied treat. Phamtom and trailer, with the little scooter in background that road with Ray and the Big dogs a few week ago, GF has her head down and ass up look for the right flavour icecream.

Side fence cleared of shrubs ready for rails and painting

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Post by AussieBoy » October 20, 2007, 8:57 pm

FrazeeDK wrote:wouldn't sow cement (concrete formed posts) be a better long term solution for fence posts..??? .
I looked around the local area, and all the post were concrete, couldn't find any 2.4mt long concrete, 600 in ground 1800 above, most of the local concrete post around my area were all out of level, the soil is sandy clay, poor drainage, sets hard when dry , but turns to slop when wet, to much movement, as well the concrete post posed a problem fixing steel battens to, try to drill the post and used a anchor bolt the post just cracks, so timber was the best easiest to use, if done right will last my life time, as long as you treat the bottom of the post correctly to allow the water to run off except 40 years plus life. Also allows for a high wind load on the fence when concreted in.

The side fence posts was concrete post set into dirt, we pushed them over easy after last weeks rain, at only 1 mt above the ground and 500 in the ground, we pulled them all out and set them in concrete footings 400x400x700D
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Post by AussieBoy » October 20, 2007, 9:26 pm

Day 5 Thursday: Clean side fence of shrubs concrete post in ground, install rails, fix sheets paint and complete.

Cost Rails 1/12 x 3 @ 50 mts x B45 = 2,250
Concrete 300
Fixings and connections 500
Paint 600
Red trim capping metal 1,200
Sheeting fibre cement 1.5 mt high 3,600 60 sheets @B60
Labour 2 x crew days 2,600
Total length fence 25mts B11,000 per metre cost B440 @1,5 mt high


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Post by AussieBoy » October 20, 2007, 9:44 pm

Day 6 Friday complete fence above
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LU
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Post by LU » October 20, 2007, 11:49 pm

Great pics & posts AussieBoy! TUVM! =D> As one who is looking at retirement in the Udorn area my wife and I find your "diary" both entertaining and informative. If it is not too much trouble; keep it coming and thanks again.

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Post by AussieBoy » October 21, 2007, 8:25 pm

Photo: south boundry of land with pretty colour fence, top rail cover/ red to be installed, final trims and clean at later stage, on with the real work My Home.

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wazza
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Post by wazza » October 21, 2007, 9:50 pm

AB without a doubt this thread will reach huge numbers, maybe more than the smoking debate !!

This is a great way for people contemplating the issues of building and im sure many will benefit from all this.

You will get hit later with names, where did u buy that, etc.

To save u the effort, why not put this onto a database and then release it at the barbie !!

Profesional Fees can be based on savings made proportional to the number of VB u can drink :lol:

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Post by Franco » October 22, 2007, 1:24 am

For housebuilders and would be housebuilders, another good site for a similar project, full of useful information.

http:/www.coolthaihouse.com/

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Post by AussieBoy » October 23, 2007, 9:06 pm

Day 7 Saturday: Install post for home, into 500x500x1000 footing

Costings
Post 75x75x3mm steel 6mtx 6 @b600 Ea B3600
Plate 75x6mm 6mt B600
Cutting welding post and plate delivered to site B3600
painting post labour and paint B600

Total post 12 @1.5mt long -----------------------------B8,400

Set out dig holes 2 x days crew...............................B2,600

Concrete 4 mt3-------------------------------------------B6,000

Total sub floor support---------------------------------B17,000

60mt2 cost per mt2 approx=B300

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Post by AussieBoy » October 23, 2007, 9:41 pm

Day 8 Sunday: Install bearers and joist, went for a combanation of timber and steel,Bearers were the same price in either timber or steel, allowing for the painting, timber a bit easy to work with,

Steel joist were 100x 40 x 2 mm at B45 mt , timber was B75 a mt 100x 38mm total of 180mt x B30 a saving of B5400 using steel, but approx 5 hours extra work for the crew to screw the flooring dow, compared to using nails on a timber joist

Photo of bearers and joist, bearers were fixed down to post with 2 x 12mm bolts and large 75mm washers to on the timber to achive a tie down rating of 60mt/s.

joist double up under internal bracing walls , no internal wall is load bearing, roof load gets transfered to out external walls, on all joist across the 3 bearers, fixed down with 30 x 30 x 1.5mm steel angle, nailed with 40mmx 2.5 concrete nails with load spreading washers nailed into bearer, no hard nail clouts available in thailand, so made do with that system, tie down bracket fixed to joist with 20 x 2.5 wafer self drilling screws x 2 per joist, in photo you can see 1 of the brackets, and the 2 screws sticking through the other joist, more detail later with close up of connections.

Stump has ant capping, not much standard material available for such things here, so the capping is baking dish aluminium B50 from Macro. This capping helps stop white ants , and general ants, the dont like travelling up around the capping, and you can put oil/ chemical on the top side of capping to stop the bugs, the system is designed to slow down the access of the crawling insects, based on a monthly visual inspection, if done right as is shown, you only need to look as you walk past the stumps to see if there are signs of any dirt tracks up the post, the capping adds a little more divation for the creaters to crawl up and over

Now we got the wind loading for the bearers and joist, the ants under control, on to the flooring

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Post by AussieBoy » October 23, 2007, 9:57 pm

End beaters have double joist as well as 30 x 0.5 mm metal strapping to hold straight and tie down

: Install Bearers 200x 75 bolt and fix, 6 x 5mt lengths @ b200mt = B6,000
Labour cut and place
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Post by AussieBoy » October 23, 2007, 10:05 pm

Day 9 Monday: Install flooring screwed to joist, and glue
Flooring ply wood pine parquetry 2400x 1200x20mm 12 sheets main room lounge @b1200 Total B14,400
Flooring plywood standard finish 2400x 1200 x 20mm bedroom bathroom 8 @b600 Total B4800
Nails glue fixings T B3000
1 x 4 lt rubber seal paint for wet area B1000


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Post by Aardvark » October 24, 2007, 8:20 am

Your moving along at a good pace Aussieboy, keep up the good work :D

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Post by rickfarang » October 24, 2007, 8:45 pm

I'm enjoying this. Please keep us up to date.

Good luck to you in this adventure.

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Post by AussieBoy » October 25, 2007, 12:33 am

Total Costing to platform stage all material labour as seen above, ready for walls

B60,000 @ 60mt2= B1,000 a mt2,

does not include drive way fence, just the building platform, and costs accossiated with construction the home.

Earth works, fences, power, telecommunication, landscaping, not included, just the costings to build the home
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Post by AussieBoy » October 25, 2007, 12:54 am

Day 10 Tuesday: Make walls, a new learning experience for the local carpenters, after putting on all the extra tie downs to the platform stage, the crew get instructions on making the walls on the platform, the standing them up, the crew had no idea about making timber frame on the deck then standing it up, they stood the first stud up in place and were about to skewnail it, got me thinking how they would hold the stud there while the nailed the second one, and how they would put the top plate on.

Most word spoken out of their mouths, Good idea, they were amazed at the speed of construction, but weren't to sure about all the bolts strapping, that seem a waste of time to them, but they soon learned about the wind and tie down, stud spacing, flex of the floor, to them putting glue on the joist was a waste of time money, there is a theory behind every thing, when explained why its done that way they can see the quality.



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Post by AussieBoy » October 25, 2007, 1:01 am

First wall goes up late after noon after spending the day cutting out the frame for the home and all the walls first, now it's a big jig saw puzzle to put all the cut timber together, to make the frames

PHOTO One of the laboures, carpenters wife, measuring the wall spacing for the bathroom wall position, ready to flick a string line marking the walls position on the floor

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Post by Franco » October 25, 2007, 1:05 am

Aussie Boy,

Dont know if you open to questions, I understand if not, look like u busy enough with the building and posts on here,

You using Hard or Soft wood, whatever, look like u got it graded, if using softwood be interested in where you get it from,

Good luck, Franco

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Post by Franco » October 25, 2007, 1:09 am

Aussie Boy,

Dont know if you open to questions, I understand if not, look like u busy enough with the building and posts on here,

You using Hard or Soft wood, whatever, look like u got it graded, if using softwood be interested in where you get it from,

Good luck, Franco

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Post by AussieBoy » October 25, 2007, 8:11 pm

Franco wrote:Aussie Boy,

Dont know if you open to questions, I understand if not, look like u busy enough with the building and posts on here,

You using Hard or Soft wood, whatever, look like u got it graded, if using softwood be interested in where you get it from,

Good luck, Franco
Its a hardwood at the lower end of the scale, in Aussie terms F14 grade, iron bark rates up to F28, don't know the spicies type used, but I brought it from the shop on the left side of the road 100 mt pass big C going out from town, cross over the ring road, near the over pass.

Much of Australia's softwood and hardwood timber is now mechanically stress-graded whereby a lateral force is applied to a piece of timber with the amount of timber deflection providing a strength rating (refer Australian Standards 1748 and 1749-1978). Australian hardwoods range in F rating from F4 to F27 while softwoods are commonly in the range of F5-F8 with some mills now cutting lengths to F11.

The timber was sized on two faces, have not seenplantation soft wood in
thailand, this timber is easy to work with, but not as straight as platation pine. studs were 1/12 x 3 at 16" centers

http://www.outdoorstructures.com.au/grading.php
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