John's budget build
Re: John's budget build
Good progress John.
Whats you planned date for moving in
pipoz4444
Whats you planned date for moving in
pipoz4444
That's one small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind.
Re: John's budget build
Hi Pipoz
Hoping to have the external windows and doors in, and the ceiling up by the first week in May. Probably move some furniture in during July. However, I will be commuting to/from BKK for perhaps another 18 months, so will still have furniture in both BKK and Udon until that time. For instance, I have two full size fridges - maybe I will bring the one from BKK to the new house, and buy a small 2nd hand one for the BKK appt. A lot of juggling to happen I think. Probably have the house completed by November, although there will still be lots to do - landscaping and the like. I am in Udon until 6 May - could catch up for a lemonade if you will be around.
Hoping to have the external windows and doors in, and the ceiling up by the first week in May. Probably move some furniture in during July. However, I will be commuting to/from BKK for perhaps another 18 months, so will still have furniture in both BKK and Udon until that time. For instance, I have two full size fridges - maybe I will bring the one from BKK to the new house, and buy a small 2nd hand one for the BKK appt. A lot of juggling to happen I think. Probably have the house completed by November, although there will still be lots to do - landscaping and the like. I am in Udon until 6 May - could catch up for a lemonade if you will be around.
Re: John's budget build
Good luck with the move in Mayajarnudon wrote: ↑April 7, 2019, 11:33 amHi Pipoz
Hoping to have the external windows and doors in, and the ceiling up by the first week in May. Probably move some furniture in during July. However, I will be commuting to/from BKK for perhaps another 18 months, so will still have furniture in both BKK and Udon until that time. For instance, I have two full size fridges - maybe I will bring the one from BKK to the new house, and buy a small 2nd hand one for the BKK appt. A lot of juggling to happen I think. Probably have the house completed by November, although there will still be lots to do - landscaping and the like. I am in Udon until 6 May - could catch up for a lemonade if you will be around.
Re. The Landscaping can take years, if you are anything like me and do it at a slower than slow pace, from a distance. At my rate I have another 9 to 12 month, of slow planting and paving. Still not in a hurry, as I need to have something to do in the not to distant future.
Unfortunately, I wont be back in Udon in May this year.
Sometime in May, I will be "Pulling the Pin" on working in this Desert and once I do, I then have to work a two & half months Notice Period without taking holidays. So then I am stuck here, until about end July, before I can leave for good. So probably wont see you until August if that is OK
Regards
pipoz4444
That's one small step for a man, one giant leap for mankind.
Re: John's budget build
Well, as in the adage, the best laid plans of mice and men are apt to go awry. And so it was that my plans for moving in at an early date were turned on their head.The last wall to be finished was at the front of the house, and the front patio was going to happen some time in the future. As the wall got higher and higher, I came to the realisation that I would have to call a halt to the wall construction. The wall covers the main structural steel posts to which the frame work for the patio roof would be welded.
Back to basics again, and the next step was to get in a mini excavator to dig four 1m x 1m x 1m holes for the footings of the patio framework. While he was there, I got him to dig a 40 cm x 30 cm trench connecting the holes for a strip footing for the front wall. Then manufactured four 90 cm square footing cages from 12mm deformed bar and welded two vertical reo starter bars to each, and entombed them in 25 cm of concrete. The roadfront pillars for the patio were to be of reinforced concrete, and we cut up some blocks to use as formwork. Each course is made up of two 14 cm wide blocks (each with one side cut out) and one 9 cm block with part of the centre cut out; each course is laid 90 degrees to the previous one, over the reo starter bars and backfilled with concrete course by course. The position of this column was dictated by underground services (water, power and comms), as well as the front road alignment. Next, the roof beams supported by the front concrete pillars and welded to the main steel house posts, 100 x 50 box steel rafters, steel roof purlins then the roof sheeting. Some structural steel underneath to take the ceiling purlins which will take the gyprock ceiling. Finally, enclosed the roof section at the front with lapped sheraboard and topped with steel flashing from the roof.
So, the front patio which was to be built sometime down the track has happened sooner rather than later.
Back to basics again, and the next step was to get in a mini excavator to dig four 1m x 1m x 1m holes for the footings of the patio framework. While he was there, I got him to dig a 40 cm x 30 cm trench connecting the holes for a strip footing for the front wall. Then manufactured four 90 cm square footing cages from 12mm deformed bar and welded two vertical reo starter bars to each, and entombed them in 25 cm of concrete. The roadfront pillars for the patio were to be of reinforced concrete, and we cut up some blocks to use as formwork. Each course is made up of two 14 cm wide blocks (each with one side cut out) and one 9 cm block with part of the centre cut out; each course is laid 90 degrees to the previous one, over the reo starter bars and backfilled with concrete course by course. The position of this column was dictated by underground services (water, power and comms), as well as the front road alignment. Next, the roof beams supported by the front concrete pillars and welded to the main steel house posts, 100 x 50 box steel rafters, steel roof purlins then the roof sheeting. Some structural steel underneath to take the ceiling purlins which will take the gyprock ceiling. Finally, enclosed the roof section at the front with lapped sheraboard and topped with steel flashing from the roof.
So, the front patio which was to be built sometime down the track has happened sooner rather than later.
Re: John's budget build
With all the walls completed and rendered, it was time to talk about windows and external doors. All up these will amount to approximately 24 sq. m. Finally settled on STA Aluminium in Adulyadet Road https://www.google.co.th/maps/place/Sin ... 0347?hl=en
who came on site, measured up and quoted to manufacture and install three large double sliding doors and four large windows. Went with powder coated aluminium which served me well for more than 17 years not far from the sea in Australia. The standard frames use 1.2 mm aluminium channel which is the same as off-the-shelf windows and doors sold in the likes of Do Home and Thai Watsadu. This gauge channel flexes easily in the hands, and I opted for the rigid 1.5 mm channel which seems to be of the same quality I had in Australia. All of the doors and windows are to be screened; window screens are to have two centre horizontal bars for rigidity, and doors screens four.
After some horse trading, a price of THB 72,000 was agreed on, and I paid a 50% deposit with an installation date around four weeks out. My priority now was to get the external walls painted inside and out, to avoid getting paint splashed on the about-to-be-installed windows, doors and frames. A couple of wall surfaces had some fine spider cracks in the render, notably in the AAC walls but not in the masonry walls. I was cognisant of allowing a minimum of four weeks for the render to completely dry and any cracks to appear before painting. If a crack was 1 mm wide, we filled it with acrylic putty before painting. I opted for Nippon Paint’s Flexiseal Elastomeric Acrylic Primer. According to the manufacturer, this product successfully spans cracks of up to 1.5 mm. All walls, external and internal, have received two coats of this sealer. All external walls have now been colour coated (two coats) inside and out with Jotun matt acrylic - exterior a pale yellow and interior a light grey.
who came on site, measured up and quoted to manufacture and install three large double sliding doors and four large windows. Went with powder coated aluminium which served me well for more than 17 years not far from the sea in Australia. The standard frames use 1.2 mm aluminium channel which is the same as off-the-shelf windows and doors sold in the likes of Do Home and Thai Watsadu. This gauge channel flexes easily in the hands, and I opted for the rigid 1.5 mm channel which seems to be of the same quality I had in Australia. All of the doors and windows are to be screened; window screens are to have two centre horizontal bars for rigidity, and doors screens four.
After some horse trading, a price of THB 72,000 was agreed on, and I paid a 50% deposit with an installation date around four weeks out. My priority now was to get the external walls painted inside and out, to avoid getting paint splashed on the about-to-be-installed windows, doors and frames. A couple of wall surfaces had some fine spider cracks in the render, notably in the AAC walls but not in the masonry walls. I was cognisant of allowing a minimum of four weeks for the render to completely dry and any cracks to appear before painting. If a crack was 1 mm wide, we filled it with acrylic putty before painting. I opted for Nippon Paint’s Flexiseal Elastomeric Acrylic Primer. According to the manufacturer, this product successfully spans cracks of up to 1.5 mm. All walls, external and internal, have received two coats of this sealer. All external walls have now been colour coated (two coats) inside and out with Jotun matt acrylic - exterior a pale yellow and interior a light grey.
- Barney
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Re: John's budget build
John
I hear there's been some sprinkling of rain in UT of late, has this affected progress?
Having the building covered and partially sealed does allow things to progress inside.
Are your windows to be fitted soon. What type and makeup of the windows did you go for?
I hear there's been some sprinkling of rain in UT of late, has this affected progress?
Having the building covered and partially sealed does allow things to progress inside.
Are your windows to be fitted soon. What type and makeup of the windows did you go for?
Re: John's budget build
Hi Barney
From my previous post:
"...windows and external doors. All up these will amount to approximately 24 sq. m. Finally settled on STA Aluminium in Adulyadet Road https://www.google.co.th/maps/place/Sin ... 0347?hl=en
who came on site, measured up and quoted to manufacture and install three large double sliding doors and four large windows. Went with powder coated aluminium which served me well for more than 17 years not far from the sea in Australia. The standard frames use 1.2 mm aluminium channel which is the same as off-the-shelf windows and doors sold in the likes of Do Home and Thai Watsadu. This gauge channel flexes easily in the hands, and I opted for the rigid 1.5 mm channel which seems to be of the same quality I had in Australia. All of the doors and windows are to be screened; window screens are to have two centre horizontal bars for rigidity, and doors screens four.
After some horse trading, a price of THB 72,000 was agreed on, and I paid a 50% deposit with an installation date around four weeks out."
Hopefully the installation is finished now and I will get some pictures to post this weekend.
From my previous post:
"...windows and external doors. All up these will amount to approximately 24 sq. m. Finally settled on STA Aluminium in Adulyadet Road https://www.google.co.th/maps/place/Sin ... 0347?hl=en
who came on site, measured up and quoted to manufacture and install three large double sliding doors and four large windows. Went with powder coated aluminium which served me well for more than 17 years not far from the sea in Australia. The standard frames use 1.2 mm aluminium channel which is the same as off-the-shelf windows and doors sold in the likes of Do Home and Thai Watsadu. This gauge channel flexes easily in the hands, and I opted for the rigid 1.5 mm channel which seems to be of the same quality I had in Australia. All of the doors and windows are to be screened; window screens are to have two centre horizontal bars for rigidity, and doors screens four.
After some horse trading, a price of THB 72,000 was agreed on, and I paid a 50% deposit with an installation date around four weeks out."
Hopefully the installation is finished now and I will get some pictures to post this weekend.
Re: John's budget build
All of the external windows and doors have now been installed, and I am generally very pleased with the result. Just two minor hiccups which the manufacturer is now addressing. The screen for one of the sliding doors is being redone, and there is an issue with the window in the main bedroom. The specification was for a single fixed pane in the centre and two sliding panes at the edges. This allows two-thirds of the area to be opened, however they made it with two-track channel instead of three - meaning that you could only have one pane open at a time. They have ordered some three-track channel from Bangkok, and we have been told that it should arrive in a few days.
One of the two sliding doors front of house. Front window between kitchen and patio - there will be a servery in front of the sill on the patio side. The problematic bedroom window. Window in main BR ensuite. Living room window and sliding door giving access to the rear deck. A sky of blue, a sea of green - where's the yellow submarine? The view from the rear deck.Re: John's budget build
Catch up pic: Yet to be rendered wall of the front patio and gable end Sheraboard covering and flashing.
I was back on site last weekend, and the major achievement was the absorption trench for the septic system serving the two inside bathrooms (we put in the first septic system about two years ago for the outside toilet at the rear of the garage/laundry - this was a necessary facility given the foreseen very long construction period). This was hard manual work for the three men digging the 11 metre x 60-70 cm deep x 35 cm wide trench. Some of the fill was like concrete. A secondary trench was dug almost at right angles to the absorption trench to connect the shower and washbasin wastes after the the septic tank (i.e. into the exit pipe from the tank, not before it).The 10 cm exit pipe had two rows of 2.5 cm x 30 cm slots (with 10 cm gaps between slots) cut at 135 and 215 degrees from the vertical (give or take). Each length of pipe was then wrapped in multiple layers of shade cloth before being placed and joined on a prepared bed of sand (at the bottom) and aggregate.Re: John's budget build
Had a bit of rain during the week
That's looking up the soi past my house towards the highway.Re: John's budget build
Last weekend we poured the slab for the front patio (2.5 cubes). Thai workers keep scratching their heads that I don't have overs or unders.
Pics of the main bedroom ensuite and main bathroom, surfaces covered with Shell Flintcote bituminous emulsion prior to tiling.Re: John's budget build
This little beauty is about to be installed in the gable end ceiling void front of house. This 8" blower extracts more than 20 cubic metres of air per minute. It will be coupled with a special thermocouple digital switch that I imported after countless hours searcing the web. The switch has multiple functions, but in my application it will compare the temperature difference between two sensors mounted clear of the internal and external walls (high up and shaded). Settings will be obtained experimentally, but I will start with a 3 degree C differential. That is to say that when the outside temperaure is 3 degrees below the temperature in the upper room level, the extractor will automatically start pumping air from the gable end and the vents in the ceiling below.
Re: John's budget build
Time for another update. The major accomplishment in October was the ceiling installation. This work was done by an external contractor - at THB 28,000 they weren't cheap, but their work is first class; and I was surprised how quick it all went up.
While the ceiling guys were working my own crew continued on with other things, such as the flashing in the pic above and a lot of painting. All of the wall painting is 100% complete and, as of yesterday, all of the ceilings have two coats of Dulux ceiling acrylic. We also installed the vented front door on the gas cylinder closet, and enclosed it on the inside.
Meanwhile the leccie has been back and installed some ceiling downlights as well as fitting some of the sockets to the boxes now that the walls have all been painted. I am still waiting on the arrival of some light fittings that I bought on Aliexpress.- sometimewoodworker
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Re: John's budget build
Do remember to order extras of the lights, they fail and a particular light will be discontinued. DAMHIKT
Jerome and Nui's new househttp://bit.ly/NJnewHouse
In my posts all fees and requirements are the standard R&R but TIT and a brown envelope can make incredible changes YMMV.
In my posts all fees and requirements are the standard R&R but TIT and a brown envelope can make incredible changes YMMV.
Re: John's budget build
Yers, thanks Jerome. Sound advice.
Re: John's budget build
Now that the ceilings are painted, things are racing ahead. I had held off doing a lot of things until all the painting was finished. We have made a start with the tiling in the main bedroom ensuite. I am keen to get this done so we can install the fittings and have one fully functional bathroom.
Also have the soffit installation underway. I have chosen to go with the standard 4mm fibreboard vented with rows of small holes. These come in sheets 120 x 60 cms which in Thai style construction are used lengthwise under the eaves. However, my one metre roof overhang dictated that they be used at right angles to the walls with the surplus removed. For a Thai 60 cm soffit, the 4 mm board is self supporting, but they sagged badly under the 1 m eaves. The board is supported at each end by 1" steel angle attached to the wall and another welded below the fascia. The solution was to buy some aluminium angle and glue and screw it to both edges of the soffit board. This method was chosen so that each panel could be lifted out to give access for running cable etc. Will have to see what happens during a storm - may have to fix the panels with a couple of screws; time will tell. In a day and a bit we have completed 50% of the job and I am very happy with the neat result achieved. Also did some preliminary work on the 2.25 m wide concrete central staircase which will span the 80 cm differential between the upper and lower levels. And, as I am writing, two of the airconditioners are being installed - a 17,000 BTU unit in the living room and a 14,500 BTU unit in the main bedroom with a walk-in robe. Also a special thank you to my mate Peter at the Aussie Pub for these Foxtail Palms. Have now put up some shade cloth to protect them until they get sun hardened.Re: John's budget build
Ordered an 8 MP 8 channel Network Video Recorder with 3TB HDD for the surveillance and security system for our new house ex-China thru Aliexpress (USD 245). Enquired from the supplier why the item hadn't left their factory ten days after my order was placed. This was the response sent together with photographic evidence:
'Because we factory got fire 13 Nov.' They say they should be able to ship it in 7-10 days. Given the circumstances one can only commiserate with them and cooperate. An extra 7-10 days will be fine.
'Because we factory got fire 13 Nov.' They say they should be able to ship it in 7-10 days. Given the circumstances one can only commiserate with them and cooperate. An extra 7-10 days will be fine.
Re: John's budget build
Just have to hope the fire wasn't caused by a faulty 8 MP 8 channel Network Video Recorder with 3TB HDD
Age & treachery will always triumph over youth & ability
Re: John's budget build
Agreed Niggly. But the worst case scenario for me is to replace some electrical wiring. My build is 100% concrete and steel. Not a stick of timber in the joint.