John's budget build
Re: John's budget build
Whatever, but I am looking forward to retirement breakfasts and morning coffee with serenity and the greenery of the rice paddies.
Re: John's budget build
Well the strutural part of the wall build is now complete, with only a few cosmetic issues to be corrected (mortar over some exposed aggregate on some columns), minor rehabilitation of the adjoining farmers land and rubbish removal. The final stage is the drainage (slotted PVC pipe enclosed in aggregate, draining through the walls into the paddy fields). I settled up with the builder on Saturday for the completed work, retaining a final payment until the drainage is complete, rubbish removed from site, and the neighbour satisfied with rehabilitation. I need to personally supervise the drainage, and tentatively this last stage will happen in two weeks time.
A long time getting there, and lots of hiccups, but I am happy with the results achieved to date. A fair way over the original budget, but mostly from choices I made as we went along.
A long time getting there, and lots of hiccups, but I am happy with the results achieved to date. A fair way over the original budget, but mostly from choices I made as we went along.
Re: John's budget build
This 11 metre wall is right on the boundary so there are no windows, but 64 glass blocks providing natural light. A lot of care needed during the rendering to keep the glass clean.
Re: John's budget build
ajarnudon wrote: ↑July 3, 2017, 9:11 am20170702_151909.jpg
The reo in the second column from the right is too short. The concrete will have to be chipped away to expose the reo and short bars welded on. Then the columns will have additional concrete placed to top-of-wall height before the 150 mm C section beams are welded to the reo on top.
This 11 metre wall is right on the boundary so there are no windows, but 64 glass blocks providing natural light. A lot of care needed during the rendering to keep the glass clean.
Drill and epoxy starter bars in place, chip and hack you will rattle your blockwork loose down the length of the column, if you want to weld rebar make sure it is in that particular rebar spec, most you can't weld as it weakens it to much.
Re: John's budget build
Thanks for the heads up on the drill and epoxy Fatbob. No problem with welding the reo though if we drill and epoxy - we are only talking about 15 cms of reo protruding from the tops of the columns. The beam will rest on the top of the concrete column (ie compression taken on the concrete, weld only to resist lateral force).
Re: John's budget build
For cost and time savings I am going with steel beams (cold formed C section) rather than concrete for the top plates. After finding out that these are available only to max 6m lengths (rafters were longer), I have been forced to modify my plans. I have cut 40 cms from the central hallway, bringing it down from 2.4m to 2.0m, and compensating by extending the length by 0.8m - a slight increase in floor area overall.
Before I finalise the changes, can anyone advise regarding standard lengths of colorbond roofing sheets available here? I am looking for 6m for the main part of the house, and 3.6m or 4.0 for the carport and garage respectively. Do local stockists/agents have similar lengths? Thanks in advance.
Before I finalise the changes, can anyone advise regarding standard lengths of colorbond roofing sheets available here? I am looking for 6m for the main part of the house, and 3.6m or 4.0 for the carport and garage respectively. Do local stockists/agents have similar lengths? Thanks in advance.
- sometimewoodworker
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Re: John's budget build
There are no standard lengths if you buy from Ban Hat where the local profiles are produced. They will produce any length you want. The only difficulty would be transportation for really long sections.ajarnudon wrote: ↑August 16, 2017, 7:45 pmFor cost and time savings I am going with steel beams (cold formed C section) rather than concrete for the top plates. After finding out that these are available only to max 6m lengths (rafters were longer), I have been forced to modify my plans. I have cut 40 cms from the central hallway, bringing it down from 2.4m to 2.0m, and compensating by extending the length by 0.8m - a slight increase in floor area overall.
Before I finalise the changes, can anyone advise regarding standard lengths of colorbond roofing sheets available here? I am looking for 6m for the main part of the house, and 3.6m or 4.0 for the carport and garage respectively. Do local stockists/agents have similar lengths? Thanks in advance.
I used 16 x 7 meter lengths in my roof
And as far as the lengths of C section longer lengths are easily welded together, welding is a skill that the Thais do very well at. The trusses in our build are 18 metres and no steel used was over 6 meters
Jerome and Nui's new househttp://bit.ly/NJnewHouse
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Re: John's budget build
My back shed roof is a total of 9 mtrs wide so the longer length in the photo about 7mtr. No joins. The capping may come in set length. You can buy what you want. Just used box steel for the beam and truss. All welded on site.
Good luck with the roof.
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Re: John's budget build
Great info - thanks Barney and STWW
Re: John's budget build
I want to seal the inside of the block retaining wall before I backfill it, so that paint doesn't peel off the outside. Do I need a bitumen product like Flintcote (probably an expensive option) or is there a cheaper way?
What have others done, and did it work out OK?
What have others done, and did it work out OK?
Re: John's budget build
Best way is to bitumen seal, then cover in plastic and then A/C sheet to protect the two waterproof surfaces. That is how I have done it on other projects.
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Re: John's budget build
A cheaper version of Flintcote is DrFixit
Jerome and Nui's new househttp://bit.ly/NJnewHouse
Re: John's budget build
Thanks for the valuable input guys. I have decided to go with the Flintkote and estimate 8 or 9 18L pails - somewhere around THB 11,000. First coat primer, 50/50 with water. Second and third coats 100%, one applied horizontally and one vertically as per Shell's instructions. I already have the plastic sheeting, and that will go up before the backfill. Against my instructions, the crew rendered both sides of the wall - so I am think we will have a very watertight structure. Maybe with the inside render, the Flintkote is overkill, but the last thing I want is flaking paint on the outside. Relatively cheap insurance.
Re: John's budget build
I am working back in BKK again, and have driven back to Udon today. Hope we have just about seen the last of the rain so I can get some work done at the block. Firstly to waterproof the inside of the retaining wall (Flintkote), put up the plastic sheeting, instal the drainage and then backfill. The fill in the garage section will have to be compacted to support the floor slab, aided by five transverse beam footings. As soon as the backfill is out of the way, four of the house posts will go in as they will also support the lean-to garage roof. I 've got a two week window before it's back to BKK and work.
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Re: John's budget build
Well done John,
I'm sure you will be kept busy. Must be nice working in Thailand and closer to home.
What industry are you in?
I'm persevering through the hard economic down turn times in the construction industry, now that the companies can screw you, not in money but for me in the R&R roster.
I feel we are both working to the same goal of one day sitting like all the other old guys in Udon and enjoying, as you put it earlier in your thread, the serenity of having a cuppa and looking over the rice paddies and perhaps doing the school run, looking for a special gravy mix, a roast dinner, and a cheap beer. Well actually I wont be looking for any of those but will do the school run.
Good luck with the house mate.
I'm sure you will be kept busy. Must be nice working in Thailand and closer to home.
What industry are you in?
I'm persevering through the hard economic down turn times in the construction industry, now that the companies can screw you, not in money but for me in the R&R roster.
I feel we are both working to the same goal of one day sitting like all the other old guys in Udon and enjoying, as you put it earlier in your thread, the serenity of having a cuppa and looking over the rice paddies and perhaps doing the school run, looking for a special gravy mix, a roast dinner, and a cheap beer. Well actually I wont be looking for any of those but will do the school run.
Good luck with the house mate.
Re: John's budget build
Thanks Barney. I think I am going to enjoy looking out on this from my back deck. I'm talking about the paddy fields of course. Bumper rice crop this year - some of that greenery is higher than my 175 cms.
Finally got some work done at our land today. Third and final coat of Flintcote bituminous emulsion going on to waterproof the inside of the retaining wall. At the bottom is the first section of drainage in place - to be covered in crushed aggregate.
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Re: John's budget build
Awesome! This is pretty inspiring.
Re: John's budget build
I bet this will be stupid ? why paint a wall? cant the skim coat of cement have color added? OR if no paint wy coat a retaining wall with waterproofing? 3 Coats may not seal all the voids and seems like so much work... Paint wont last ..
I can see the need for a good french drain to keep the hydrostatic pressure off the wall but what is the worst thing if the wall wicks up and has some effervescence?
I can see the need for a good french drain to keep the hydrostatic pressure off the wall but what is the worst thing if the wall wicks up and has some effervescence?