sorry but clearly you are no civil engineer, a complete waste of time or have you totally waterproofed the your footings as well?? if so you do not need DPC at all.

You are very presumptuous and very wrong. Enough of this crap with you. AAAOTF

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minimiglia wrote:A complete waste of time with the concrete pillars.

Exactly - not just the concrete pillars but the rendering make a DPC on just the blocks completely pointless.

. Uk rendering starts above the dpc.

Marcosteffano wrote:FBEEFC38-2451-4F30-904E-7498F127BF48-962-0000017889F9CFBA.jpeg. Uk rendering starts above the dpc.

It shows how to avoid damp travelling up the walls and paint peeling problems.as for mentioning the uk.how about you finding a picture of a rendered wall thats is above dpc in Thailand and give some positive input instead of sitting there eating lard sandwiches and pulling people's advice to bits.

For starters you cannot get fired bricks here unless you import them from OS. I'll stick to my lard sanga's and watch people dig them selves out of holes...

deankham

Been a few days have you tried anything yet to rectify? Plenty of advice on here on why it may be damp but not much on how to fix.
Is the damp on the inside of the wall as well as exterior?

Which ever way you go and without stating the obvious you must find the source and stop the moisture before painting any thing. Its obvious that the moisture is no draining or drying in that area of the exterior walls.
Perhaps get the missus to dig some sample holes along the affected wall to the bottom of the slab to check the moisture content of the soil. Difficult with all the rain at present so maybe later.

Without seeing the house and also totally without fear of being ridiculed by UM members here is my personal solution.

Dig a shovel width trench along the entire affected wall to the bottom of the slab. If you have down pipes from the roof that go underground dig the trench to the downpipe.
Paint the concrete with waterproofing paint.
Lay an agricultural pipe ( one with small holes and wrapped in cloth ) available from the hardware. Connect this into the underground down pipe system. Make sure the level drains in that direction.
Cover with blue metal rocks 7 or 10mm size not to the top.
Cover the rocks with your soil and grass.

Bobs your uncle.

Barney wrote:deankham

Been a few days have you tried anything yet to rectify? Plenty of advice on here on why it may be damp but not much on how to fix.
Is the damp on the inside of the wall as well as exterior?

Which ever way you go and without stating the obvious you must find the source and stop the moisture before painting any thing. Its obvious that the moisture is no draining or drying in that area of the exterior walls.
Perhaps get the missus to dig some sample holes along the affected wall to the bottom of the slab to check the moisture content of the soil. Difficult with all the rain at present so maybe later.

Without seeing the house and also totally without fear of being ridiculed by UM members here is my personal solution.

Dig a shovel width trench along the entire affected wall to the bottom of the slab. If you have down pipes from the roof that go underground dig the trench to the downpipe.
Paint the concrete with waterproofing paint.
Lay an agricultural pipe ( one with small holes and wrapped in cloth ) available from the hardware. Connect this into the underground down pipe system. Make sure the level drains in that direction.
Cover with blue metal rocks 7 or 10mm size not to the top.
Cover the rocks with your soil and grass.

Bobs your uncle.

yes Barney first find the source of the problem,I think your idea is alone the line of a French drain

Barney wrote:deankham

Been a few days have you tried anything yet to rectify? Plenty of advice on here on why it may be damp but not much on how to fix.
Is the damp on the inside of the wall as well as exterior?

Which ever way you go and without stating the obvious you must find the source and stop the moisture before painting any thing. Its obvious that the moisture is no draining or drying in that area of the exterior walls.
Perhaps get the missus to dig some sample holes along the affected wall to the bottom of the slab to check the moisture content of the soil. Difficult with all the rain at present so maybe later.

Without seeing the house and also totally without fear of being ridiculed by UM members here is my personal solution.

Dig a shovel width trench along the entire affected wall to the bottom of the slab. If you have down pipes from the roof that go underground dig the trench to the downpipe.
Paint the concrete with waterproofing paint.
Lay an agricultural pipe ( one with small holes and wrapped in cloth ) available from the hardware. Connect this into the underground down pipe system. Make sure the level drains in that direction.
Cover with blue metal rocks 7 or 10mm size not to the top.
Cover the rocks with your soil and grass.

Bobs your uncle.

Haven't met Bob, but rising damp is through moisture, your method will remove water but will have no effect on moisture, therefore no effect on the rising damp problem, concrete being porous like a sponge will suck it up, the only prevention is a DPC for blockwork walls, plastic under the slab and beams and a waterproof additive in your render, then you are a chance, 99.9% of Thai houses have rising damp, look at the old estates where the walls are mouldy and black.

{quote} without fear of being ridiculed by UM members here is my personal solution.

Bobs your uncle.[/quote]

Way to go .... Congrats

Right let's get a few things straight.ive been laying bricks since 1979 and I have numerous qualification and experience in these matters.first of all a dpc level should be set at a minimum 150mm or 6inch above ground level which would be your internal floor level but not your ffl finished floor level.all floors cast in concrete should have plastic membrane that is folded onto the block dpc.so that covers the walls and floor answer.as for the concrete piers(pillars) well they are or seem to be made of a higher density concrete that has been vibrated to give it extra properties of strength and the ability to resist water penetration.so the chances of damp travelling up the piers or pillars is minimal.hence when a wall is built in the western world it typically has a stone or concrete coping on top or as in the old days we used to do BOE brick on edge which was a engineering type red or blue brick to stop water (rain) penetrating the top of the wall.so this just leaves the question of cement render.in the western world not just the uk there are various additives such as pva (white wood glue) that you can add to the render to prevent water ingress.as I pointed out earlier in a picture the render is usually from the dpc up thus being 150mm from ground level.as for you fat bob I suggest your read things more carefully.i never mentioned anything in my reply about fired(kilned) bricks.i was merely pointing out where the render starts.as my dad used to say.son you should listen to the doctor not the disease.i must say it pisses me off when lolly pop men and doughnut bakers become building advisors and civil engineers.

So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

fatbob wrote:So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

You keep going on about bricks.ive not mentioned bricks below or above dpc.in the picture I posted I wrote about render from 150mm above ground level or internal floor level and you started going on about not being able to get fired (kiln) bricks.where did I say about any bricks.i posted a picture of render and you started piping up about bricks..once again i must remind you I never mentioned bricks with this picture....you came out with fired bricks that you can't get here...I never wrote anything about bricks with this picture.ffs your hard work and as for brickies aus needs uk brickies and we need aussies to pour our pints in witherspoons on minimum wages.

fatbob wrote:So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

https://youtu.be/M59YQfYaRY8

Didn't take 10 seconds to find this one https://youtu.be/cg616tIOrNU

fatbob wrote:For starters you cannot get fired bricks here unless you import them from OS. I'll stick to my lard sanga's and watch people dig them selves out of holes...

Fired bricks obviously on a different planet.read my post didn't mention bricks or importing bricks..I was talking about rendering.what goes under the dpc is entirely up to you..are you trying to wind me up by acting thick?

fatbob wrote:So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

there,a floor membrane ready to cast a concrete floor and over lapping the footing walls to a height of dpc where the walls will be built on.it don't get much easier than that.

fatbob wrote:So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

Now who has mentioned face brickwork on this post? Come on answer the question,you've insulted my intelligence with your nonsense about building.If you've got to supervise your brickies you need to look at how you find these brickies.as me dad used to say,if you pay peanuts you get monkeys and I bet you've gone through a few monkeys.in fact if I went for a job interview With you I would be doing the interviewing.I hope your not still supervising out here because I wouldn't want you building a dog kennel for me.sorry supervising building a dog kennel.bricks,bricks and facing bricks.that is the question.anyway I'm not replying to anymore of you bs but if anyone needs advice I will gladly try to point them in the right direction.

Marcosteffano wrote:

fatbob wrote:So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

44688EE2-248F-441C-BD71-20580B8FD374-2165-000003038A176DB7.jpeg there,a floor membrane ready to cast a concrete floor and over lapping the footing walls to a height of dpc where the walls will be built on.it don't get much easier than that.

Now show on a slope or the side of a mountain? By the way you would not even get to interview stage...but you would get 10 peanuts a day and one banana if you were lucky...