New Magnetic cooling
http://www.cooltech-applications.com

About Open loop
http://www.geojerry.com/aboutopenloop.html

http://wellowner.org/geothermal-heat-pu ... m-require/

http://energyblog.nationalgeographic.co ... d-cooling/

Images
https://www.google.com/search?q=Open+Lo ... 56&bih=694

Skip wrote:I have built a home of Q-con or super block, whatever same same haha
Now I want to tile everything. Anyone have info on that?
Do I stucco first? What should we use for attachment regular mortar????
Tnks for any info in advance

PS used the 20cm x 20cm x 60c block But if doing again I'd use 2 - 7.5cm with air gap aproxamatly 5cm and turn one flat about every 4 courses CHEEPER!
Used this technique on my 3rd floor. Worked great

The big ones cost me 74 Baht each and the thiner ones are about 20 Baht each. still end with about R-8 wall. For about 1/3 less
But then I had 4" (10cm) of Spray foam applied inside and built a thai block wall about 10cm out with PEX tubing in the gap.
Then filled the gap with concrete around the tubing.
This tubing will carry ground water (About 80 Farenhite 27 Celsius in my area 100' or 30M down) Average Air temp my area 120 F - 50 C
So internal should be 28C year round.
If I want cooler I'll use AirCon but should be cheeper then trying to cool a Thai built home.

Even without doors and windows in place, building is quite a bit cooler.

Galee wrote:It was all going so well until I got to the average air temp 50C.

You don't live in Thailand I assume.

Spot on with that.

His thermometer is delusional, a roof temperature of 81.6C is impossible in Thailand, it is just possible that if its painted with a black heat absorbing paint it just might get somewhere near that.
An average air temperature 0f 50 C is equally impossible anywhere even in Thailand, even a peak of 50 is extremely rare if ever seen.

The record high for Thailand is a temperature of 44.6 °C (112.3 °F) Mae Hong Son 28 April 2016

A ground water temperature of 27 C at 30M is also unlikely in northeastern Thailand, it should be at least 5 degrees lower than that.

I can't find his roofing materials on google. PEX is an American brand and system that could only be obtained by direct import, it isn't available here. His wall insulation would have cost 1,260 Baht per Sq M and the roof insulation 1,890 Baht per Sq Metre, or more than 6 times the cost of a single layer roof of ColourBond.

The only things that seem to be correct are the prices for AAC block, though you can get 7.5cm blocks for under 15 Baht if you hunt around, buy truck full quantities and get them from the factory.

Skip wrote:For my roof I used two layers separated by the 3" x 3" steel square tube. Second sheet applied from inside building. There is air flow between the sheets of SunTie Galvanized roofing because of the Raised crimping the steel sheet. Air goes in behind the gutters and out around the 3rd floor which is a sun deck. Or was as I've now put a roof over it.
Then in the house I had 6" of Urethane Foam applied to the inner sheet of steel on the roof.
I took a thermo meter to the outer and inner sheet. Before application of foam.
Outer read 179 F - Inner 161 F

Impossible see above

Skip wrote:I have built a home of Q-con or super block, whatever same same haha
Now I want to tile everything. Anyone have info on that?
Do I stucco first? What should we use for attachment regular mortar????

I see the price has come down a little. Only here 3mo a year. bought mine 3 years ago (Or the builder got his share haha)

If you want to see the process go to
http://www.udonmap.com/udonthaniforum/w ... 99-75.html

And scroll down you can see the render being delivered and applied. There are two types used in my walls, first is the AAC render that is cheaper but has a course finish that is topped with a coat of normal render that is much smoother

Well give me time and I'll post Pics for you to prove what I say. Have to wait till end of February when the temp goes up.
I thought strange also so took 3 other Thermometers out to the one on the patio where the first is on a post in the shade. Yup all three 120 F so maybe 48-49 C And I'll do a roof handheld inferred pic for you also - galvanized steel roofing.
Next year I'll bring the swimming pool remote temp sensing unit back to thailand and send pics of that.
I'll let you talk to the guy that sprayed the foam on my building if you want.
let me know if you want his #

Skip wrote:Well give me time and I'll post Pics for you to prove what I say. Have to wait till end of February when the temp goes up.
I thought strange also so took 3 other Thermometers out to the one on the patio where the first is on a post in the shade. Yup all three 120 F so maybe 48-49 C And I'll do a roof handheld inferred pic for you also - galvanized steel roofing.
Next year I'll bring the swimming pool remote temp sensing unit back to thailand and send pics of that.
I'll let you talk to the guy that sprayed the foam on my building if you want.
let me know if you want his #

A high of 120F is rather different from an "Average Air temperature of 120F" and you should probably report that reading so you can replace Mar Hong Son for the highest recorded temperature in Thailand.

I rather think that you may have extra heat radiating up from the ground around your house that is increasing the local temperature.

FWIW I have already had my roof sprayed so I won't need that number.

A high of 120F is rather different from an "Average Air temperature of 120F" and you should probably report that reading so you can replace Mar Hong Son for the highest recorded temperature in Thailand.

I rather think that you may have extra heat radiating up from the ground around your house that is increasing the local temperature.

Yes you are right and I did mis-say AAT I did mean high. But thats for the better part of the day.

Actually the ground in the shade is rather cool compared to the air temp. The concrete post the thermo unit is on (About 1.5 meters from ground) takes on the air temp.

Starting February now 3 weeks and I'll post Pics

G'day all. This is a really important thread for me, as we are about to sign up to build using Q-Con bricks. They've specified 7.5cm but that is the thinnest spec.

Can anyone suggest which thickness is "generally" appropriate?

I can imagine the thicker you go, the better they insulate; but no need to over do it.

Anyone with experience - I would love to hear what you used, and recommend.

7.5 seems standard can do 2 make it 150
I would use 2 if was building again

peterk wrote: ↑

July 14, 2022, 10:48 am

G'day all. This is a really important thread for me, as we are about to sign up to build using Q-Con bricks. They've specified 7.5cm but that is the thinnest spec.

Can anyone suggest which thickness is "generally" appropriate?

I can imagine the thicker you go, the better they insulate; but no need to over do it.

Anyone with experience - I would love to hear what you used, and recommend.

Not a scientist, but 25 year of experience living in the tropics: I'd invest in anything that can keep the sun from hitting the walls/windows (trees, large overhangs, house orientation). You might be better served with a double wall for walls that are in direct sunlight morning/afternoon (especially east/west facing). But if you can keep the sun off your walls/windows, a double wall isn't going to add much/anything.

peterk wrote: ↑

July 14, 2022, 10:48 am

G'day all. This is a really important thread for me, as we are about to sign up to build using Q-Con bricks. They've specified 7.5cm but that is the thinnest spec.

Can anyone suggest which thickness is "generally" appropriate?

I can imagine the thicker you go, the better they insulate; but no need to over do it.

Anyone with experience - I would love to hear what you used, and recommend.

75mm is the cheapest, most widely stocked and available. Cavity walls are the way to go if you want all the benefits (sound, heat & fire) while having no visible pillars.

You can see the complete build https://www.coolthaihouse.com/forum/vie ... f=3&t=4890 here
With some of it here

noosard wrote: ↑

July 14, 2022, 11:17 am

7.5 seems standard can do 2 make it 150
I would use 2 if was building again

Thank you for your valuable advice

Hi guys. Many thanks for your valuable advice regarding Q-Con blocks. It's greatly appreciated