Paint peeling on outside of house

[Marcosteffano]

Didn't take 10 seconds to find this one https://youtu.be/cg616tIOrNU

[Marcosteffano]

For starters you cannot get fired bricks here unless you import them from OS. I'll stick to my lard sanga's and watch people dig them selves out of holes...

Fired bricks obviously on a different planet.read my post didn't mention bricks or importing bricks..I was talking about rendering.what goes under the dpc is entirely up to you..are you trying to wind me up by acting thick?

[Marcosteffano]

So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

44688EE2-248F-441C-BD71-20580B8FD374-2165-000003038A176DB7.jpeg (11.96 KiB) Viewed 2271 times

there,a floor membrane ready to cast a concrete floor and over lapping the footing walls to a height of dpc where the walls will be built on.it don't get much easier than that.

[Marcosteffano]

So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

Now who has mentioned face brickwork on this post? Come on answer the question,you've insulted my intelligence with your nonsense about building.If you've got to supervise your brickies you need to look at how you find these brickies.as me dad used to say,if you pay peanuts you get monkeys and I bet you've gone through a few monkeys.in fact if I went for a job interview With you I would be doing the interviewing.I hope your not still supervising out here because I wouldn't want you building a dog kennel for me.sorry supervising building a dog kennel.bricks,bricks and facing bricks.that is the question.anyway I'm not replying to anymore of you bs but if anyone needs advice I will gladly try to point them in the right direction.

[fatbob]

So Marco, in Thailand what do you propose to have below floor level, normally in this country the slab and slab beam are at floor level, what do you propose, a rebate in the slab, slab beam to accommodate face bricks that are not available in this country laid to floor level. In Aus standard practice is to never leave brickies unsupervised as they will always find a way to f up....

44688EE2-248F-441C-BD71-20580B8FD374-2165-000003038A176DB7.jpeg there,a floor membrane ready to cast a concrete floor and over lapping the footing walls to a height of dpc where the walls will be built on.it don't get much easier than that.

Now show on a slope or the side of a mountain? By the way you would not even get to interview stage...but you would get 10 peanuts a day and one banana if you were lucky...

[JohnG]

Right let's get a few things straight.ive been laying bricks since 1979 and I have numerous qualification and experience in these matters.first of all a dpc level should be set at a minimum 150mm or 6inch above ground level which would be your internal floor level but not your ffl finished floor level.all floors cast in concrete should have plastic membrane that is folded onto the block dpc.so that covers the walls and floor answer.as for the concrete piers(pillars) well they are or seem to be made of a higher density concrete that has been vibrated to give it extra properties of strength and the ability to resist water penetration.so the chances of damp travelling up the piers or pillars is minimal.hence when a wall is built in the western world it typically has a stone or concrete coping on top or as in the old days we used to do BOE brick on edge which was a engineering type red or blue brick to stop water (rain) penetrating the top of the wall.so this just leaves the question of cement render.in the western world not just the uk there are various additives such as pva (white wood glue) that you can add to the render to prevent water ingress.as I pointed out earlier in a picture the render is usually from the dpc up thus being 150mm from ground level.as for you fat bob I suggest your read things more carefully.i never mentioned anything in my reply about fired(kilned) bricks.i was merely pointing out where the render starts.as my dad used to say.son you should listen to the doctor not the disease.i must say it pisses me off when lolly pop men and doughnut bakers become building advisors and civil engineers.

I'm sure you have far more extensive bricklaying experience than most here, if not all - in "the western world". Your experience in the Asian / Thai world, however, appears to be rather less.

Very different construction materials and techniques, for a very different climate.

[Barney]

It's a shame with all the experts, and I say that in a kind and positive manner, that we as a group can't provide Deankham with a solution to his very common problem. I'm sure that others who have the problem would like advice as well and more will check their design if building. I'm now glad I raised my house and did not put it on a slab.
It's obvious his house is already built and did not have the moisture protection built into the foundation. So no need to continue on with how it should have been built. Me being a sometimes small time boss on large projects I do not give much time to engineers or field supervisors who can only tell me what's wrong and not provide a solution to field problems.
I tried to help with a simple method of rectification that I used on a house I built in Vietnam. Sorry Fatbob but it worked. Maybe I was just lucky, but by draining the area as a I explained I removed all the moisture in the soil. Painted the concrete down to the bottom of the beam with at that time a thick bitumous sealant paint, back filled it like I said and never had a problem once I painted again.

Bobs not my uncle either but just an old saying.

[the-monk]

Sorry, I neither have an answer to the question, however when
Barney mentioned << thick bitumous sealant paint >> i thought that i would share my observation - experience in Thailand. The Thai house where i live was built some 15 years ago with very little expertise .
But on the house outddor contour they applied a dark brown colour sealant/paint/ ?? from the slab to the floor level, and inside the house on every wall from the floor up to about 15 cm. Anyone knows what is this brown stuff ?
If you wash this sealant/paint with warm water or use a paint thinner, the sealant would kind of liquify. Both inside and outside it does not peel it does << wash away >>. So far they never had any peeling paint outdoor or indoor.
Back home we use tar based sealant from the footing to the ground level and add a waterproof membrane before backfilling

[fatbob]

Well Barney and Uncle Bob Im sure the first person that can make strawberry jam from pig sh-t is going to be a billionaire, over and out.

[maaka]

my house is on a slab and the floor is raised one metre from the ground, and I have one of these blister type thingys..its not the paint peeling, its like salt, or cement, or a white powdery stuff is coming out of the blockwork and growing like a wart..I thought it was water coming down the inside of the blocks from the roof, then maybe coming up thru the floor..we just painted over it again after I scuffed it off, and life goes on again..

[Barney]

Well Barney and Uncle Bob Im sure the first person that can make strawberry jam from pig sh-t is going to be a billionaire, over and out.

I'll give you that one.

[deankham]

thanks for all the discussion.
..I scrapped the flaking paint of last week. Am waiting now the rain has gone to see if it gets any worse or if the walls appear to be getting damp again.

I think someone asked if the problem was only on the external walls or also the internal. It is only external.

Although I've got another problem on the inside with some floor tiles starting to make a 'crunching' noise. I'll start a new topic for this in due course!

Cheers

[JohnG]

It's a shame with all the experts, and I say that in a kind and positive manner, that we as a group can't provide Deankham with a solution to his very common problem. I'm sure that others who have the problem would like advice as well and more will check their design if building. I'm now glad I raised my house and did not put it on a slab.
It's obvious his house is already built and did not have the moisture protection built into the foundation. So no need to continue on with how it should have been built. Me being a sometimes small time boss on large projects I do not give much time to engineers or field supervisors who can only tell me what's wrong and not provide a solution to field problems.
I tried to help with a simple method of rectification that I used on a house I built in Vietnam. Sorry Fatbob but it worked. Maybe I was just lucky, but by draining the area as a I explained I removed all the moisture in the soil. Painted the concrete down to the bottom of the beam with at that time a thick bitumous sealant paint, back filled it like I said and never had a problem once I painted again.

Bobs not my uncle either but just an old saying.

I posted the only practical solution in the third post, first page.

I would strongly advise against any bitumen-type sealant for this, even though it's the right solution in other circumstances. All you'd do here is seal in the moisture.

No easy solution to the 'crunchy tiles'. Sounds like they've been badly laid, so any proper solution would mean taking them up and relaying. Hotel / house slippers may help!

[ajarnudon]

This is pretty much the norm for existing block houses in Thailand. In the transition from wooden to block construction, western expertise for damp proof course got lost along the way. As a result, most existing block houses suffer from the same problem - including my long-term rented house in Udon (50 cms is a bit extreme though; my place has the damp/salt ingress up to about 20-25 cms). There is no real solution for a pre-existing structure except tiling; external concrete surrounds usually make any other option out of the question. For Thais who have grown up with this phenomenom, no problem exists. That is just the way block walls are.
Although a lot of posts here don't address the OP's original problem, they are a good reminder to those of us who are now, or will in the future be, building.
A bit like concrete slabs really - in every condo, fuel station and shopping centre car park in the country you will find myriad crazy cracks everywhere. My wife started to pass on advice to me from her friends about how concrete should be mixed, laid etc. I pointed out all of the poor quality work in these places. Is this how you want our place to look? She always thought that this was perfectly normal. Most Thais know jack s**t about concreting. At least she now admits knowing the importance of water retention during the curing process. She'll think I am crazy though when I take a diamond saw to newly laid concrete for control joints.

[deankham]

Just an update. I scrapped all the flakey / peeling paint off about 3 weeks ago. So far it doesn't look like it is getting any worse and does not seem to be damp / wet.

It'll stay like that until the end of the wet season then I'll have it sealed and painted with a good quality exterior paint and see what happens.

My more worrying concern now is the floor tiles that are lifting. Is only a handful but they are making a crunching noise underfoot. Im worried that the concrete slab is somehow crumbling in places. Any advice on what to do next to determine what the problem is and if it is serious enough to start taking tiles up?

The wife just happened to mention that when we had the kitchen installed they had a problem with the water pipe into the kitchen and needed to chip into the wall to fix the pipe. I'm wondering if this could be the root cause and if it is just the residual effect or if it is still leaking! Worth noting that the water pump NEVER runs unless we are using a tap so I'm pretty confident we don't have a water leak coming in...going out however?

Thanks.

[JohnG]

If you don't use a decent sealant as a primer the exact same thing will happen - just maybe slightly later.

If your tiles are lifting, you can easily take one or two up to check the problem. Tap around all the tiles, and if you get a hollow sound they're probably badly laid or your tiler's used the wrong mix.

[deankham]

Thanks John.